Bass traps how many

But stay tuned, because below I'm going to show you the elite way of building these, called a Superchunk , if you have the budget for it. You'll need a lot more insulation to pull it off, but you'll get an exponentially better result and it looks better.

There's four easy steps that take a lot of time and space to do-it-yourself, but you'll save a lot of money if you can make it happen. First, you'll first need to find a place to order some Owens-Corning rigid fiberglass panels there's a link to their panels on Amazon below so you can get an idea of the price.

For bass traps you want their panels denser! So I recommend going to a local Lowes or Home Depot and letting them order it for you. I recommend ordering 2 inch thick panels if available. You can get the 1 inch thick ones but you'll need to stack four of them together instead of two because you want a total thickness of 4 inches. It's easiest to keep them in the exact shape they come in, though you'll find they're easy to cut.

I literally used a dull butterknife to cut some of these in half when I did my entire DIY build. You can use a marker to draw lines across them so you have a guide. Your next step is to build wooden frames to set the panels into. I advise using very light wood because they insulation is already kind of heavy. Your next question is whether you want this frame exposed visually when you hang them. I kept mine exposed and it was a pain in the rear to staple the fabric inside perfectly so it looked tucked in but still wrapped around the insulation.

I'm going to fully wrap mine soon, so I recommend you do that from the start. You want a fire-resistant fabric that's still breathable to air, and wrap your rectangles like a present and wrapping paper. You can staple the fabric to the back of the frame, and cut another rectangle piece for the sole purpose of covering the back.

The point is to keep insulation fibers from floating around in the air. To reiterate, your main concern here is simple but threefold. You want to ask yourself what color fabric you want, you want to make sure it's fire-resistant, and finally if you want to expose the frame or not. I suggest wrapping it completely, having done the opposite before as seen below.

Hanging them is a challenge and nobody has "the right way. I invented my own method as seen below that worked out okay:. For the sake of completion, here's what they all looked like when it was said in done, in an apartment about a decade ago:.

I plan on wrapping those in dark grey fabric and building even more soon. Try to think ahead and look at a lot of pictures of recording studios online to see different designs, because it's hard to undo or start over. It's a lot easier to get it right the first time! The panels I showed you above are critical for building front wall and back wall traps and even bass clouds. But when it comes to your four main corners there's an elite method that is far more effective at absorbing bass waves, and that's called the Superchunk.

It looks like this:. As you can see, you can take a single Owens-Corning panel, cut it in half, and then cut each half into fourths diagonally.

You're left with perfect triangles that can be stacked in a corner. So instead of having a sizable gap of air, you fill that entire pocket of air with more fiberglass! Having the sound waves bounce against the wall and pass back through a straddled rectangle panel is nice, but this is nicer.

Remember, when it comes to bass waves, thickness is a big deal, and this is thick. It also will cover the corner from floor to ceiling rather than just one section.

My recommendation is to take every stack of about 10 triangles and wrap them in thin fabric tightly, then stack them in the corner. From there, create a platform above them for the next batch of 10 triangles or 20, whatever seems right for you. This keeps the bottom of the stack from being overly compressed by the weight above, and helps keep the whole Superchunk more stable.

In the image above you can see a wooden frame built out in front of the stack to keep it tucked in the corner. You can either staple fabric to this frame, or create an entirely frame that attaches to this one. This secondary frame would be wrapped in fabric and exists to look pretty and give you access to the insides of the Superchunk.

That's it! There are a handful of quality companies out there now that sell pre-made traps. In noisy environments servers and bartenders [ Click here for more about [ I know windows are horrible for room acoustics. This is one of the most common questions we get. Live Mixing Mastering Isolation Podcasting. Offices Worship Public Educational. Click below to close. Remember me Log in. Lost your password?

Your personal data will be used to support your experience throughout this website, to manage access to your account, and for other purposes described in our privacy policy. Check our help guide for more info. Acoustic Panels Calculator This calculation is based on more traditional office space height ceilings where often drop tile ceiling systems are already in place.

Payment options. Sound absorbing acoustic panels for church acoustics. Suggested Products. Add to Wishlist. Acoustic Panels Acoustic Ceiling Panels. Acoustic Treatment vs Soundproofing. Restaurant Acoustics. There are two approaches to eqing a room, tuning it by targeting problem frequencies, or damping until the whole thing is flat.

If you have a small room, approach 1 probably isn't going to work. Chances are the acoustics are so bad, you just need to remove them all.

The only "liveliness" a small room has is the janky kind. Thinking about most untuned traps, they are actually cutting the high end at a more efficient rate. So if you only put a few in, you'll end up effecting the high end first. As you add thicker and thicker trapping the low end starts to catch up, until finally you get to the point were everything is absorbed. So the problem most people on this thread are probably having is using no where near enough bass trapping.

Question: is it feasible to use that much? It doesn't take thaaaaat much. I mean you'll have to sacrifice real space, but trying to hang Owens corning here there and everywhere isn't terribly space efficient either. You'll loose a meter of space, but you can use much cheaper insulation and it will be better down to waaay lower frequencies.

Now test the room, if it's not pretty flat, add more and make them thick. Option two is to strategically try and tune the room, good luck with that. Bass traps are worthless as tits on a bull. You need an intelligent room, subwoofers and digital bass management. The wavelengths are too long for anything the size of bass traps to do anything.

All they do is absorb and redirect higher frequencies. If you decrease higher frequencies the bass becomes relatively louder. This give the illusion of more bass. Nice racket. All of you who think you know what you are doing need to get yourselves a calibrated mic and impulse measurement program. Learn what is really happening rather than falling prey to myths and marketing. Replaceablehead is pretty tuned in. That would be two puns for me today.

I believe I am at my limit. Damp almost all reflections and the room is near flat. Get the right figures. Thick is good. Getting a suitable mic, small condenser, or proper measuring mic and using Room Eq Wizard is a good idea. But I would still say accurate GFR is the single most important thing to know.

Room Eq Wizard graphs are hard to interpret and can make you feel hopeless. I disagree with mijostyn. I believe one should address room issues passively instead of adding more electronics be in the mix.